Kinship in Kenya.

It started with a message, get in touch, but I knew what the message would be and why I was being contacted, Nathan was in a silent retreat but he was needed in Kenya to start his grandma's journey home.   His initial response was that he had no means to get there and I wondered if I would have to go in his place, in the end we both went, me from England, Nathan from Portugal via France and we landed within an hour of each other and were both met by Sam, who did not seem to have changed from 10 years earlier.  Despite the years, despite the children, having all grown up,  despite his grandma's sad passing, despite houses having being built,  this feeling of in some ways of everything being just as it was remained,  my family there made me feel important and at home, both of which was lovely. Sometimes the sheer volume of people was overwhelming as I live alone and come from a culture which no longer regularly shakes hands, but the intelligence and interest with which I was met was intoxicating.

The funeral followed a similar path to Nathan's grandfather, so we knew that there would be a lot of sitting, a lot of speeches, a lot of waiting,and even a requirement to speak ourselves but some things were new. The visit to the mortuary, the open coffin,  being carried by Nathan and his cousins, the shrieks were expected with Douglas again being especially affected.   This time we all dressed in a family outfit and this time the family had expanded as we were joined by Nathan's half sister - they have such a wonderful bond and when it came for all the families of all the children to stand and say our farewells I was very glad to have one more family member there to represent Shem's line.    I have lost count of how many people I am auntie too but we are definitely the smallest group.

My favourite day probably was the quieter day when we could all talk more and walk around the farm, but I had some brilliant conversations the other days and it was lovely to see familiar faces.  I also enjoyed a day just to myself pottering around Hesbon's huge house.  It was in the process of being built when I visited 10 years ago and still isn't complete but it is a lovely relaxed place in which to stay.

On the last day in Nairobi Sam took me to the animal orphanage,  I have some disquiet about feeding animals though in this instance can see it may help them be less bored, but it is such a privilege to be so close to a cheetah that you can hear it purr and to be licked by a leopard that disquiet went out of the window. Feeding a lion is not something I do every day.  

In the time I have been away from the little I saw Nairobi has grown into one enormous traffic jam - the middle class districts do not have decent roads even so the air of luxury that is potentially there is undermined.  I realise that sand, which is what Senegal has, seems more decorous. Neroka and Kisii were busy and buzzing. Loads of young men on motor scooters.  Cows everywhere though too, but not a giraffe in site the whole journey.  Everywhere was looking really lush with the rains and the temperature was perfect in Kisii.  Having been told mozzies should not be an issue, and despite my long robes and ghastly smelling spray and nets, I did get bitten and have been ill since my return but do not think it is anything serious.

Nathan's grandma was a very special person, the shamba still has a lovely peace about it and the views over Kisii are lovely,  but her presence will be really missed. A giant, this tiny person had 12 children who lived to adulthood. Many of her grandchildren have degrees and good jobs, and family, despite the families humble beginnings and most importantly they are all lovely decent people who are a great inspiration.   It was lovely to be back.