In Dublin's fair city.

In Ireland they have a clever train ticket system, you can buy a ticket that is usable either an hour earlier or an hour later and thank goodness I took the earlier option as arriving at Hueston train station - I discovered Dublin was neither as fair or as small as I thought it would be and to confuse me further the map in the station did not even show the station, but luckily the tiny map suggesting the lie of the land and approximate direction for the hostel showed that once over the Liffey go right and then up and I would be vaguely in the right area.

 I was amazed how busy the town was as I traipsed along looking at immense unfamiliar buildings, but still in theory in the right direction and luckily I stopped by a bench in a park growing out of a tree which I had not even noticed. But a passing man said, people are always stopping to take pictures of that, to which I replied I was actually trying to work out from my map where the youth hostel was and luckily at last I had found someone who could point me in the right direction.  I failed to take the picture of the bench, but did finally find a rather large building and lots of screaming youngsters hanging around - but luckily also spotted another woman of my age too, who turned out to be in my dorm.  So night one in Dublin was fine and warm so I carried on walking to head towards a bustling OConnell street which was also as bush as Las Ramblas.  The place was almost unrecognisable from when I visited with Nathan.  I wanted to revisit the Post Office and the bullet holes but the police officer and slightly strained atmosphere encouraged me to keep going.  It seems the post office is now where the evening soup kitchen operates and things were getting rather tense.  So I headed along by the Liffey to check where the bus to Belfast would leave from.  I then continued down the river past the monument to victims of the famine which is very close to a new museum dedicated to the migrations where loads of people were out partying.  The many faces of Dublin and then a quiet walk back up elegant Georgian streets to the hostel where to my relief all was quiet.     

Thinking I knew Dublin, prior to flying out I decided to explore the Dublin coast and booked a trip to Malahide castle and Howth harbour.   So all I had to do was have a late breakfast and then return down O'Connell street and pick my bus.   It felt like a proper holiday, bus, driver, dialogue, and we were off. There were only about 15 of us which was good as I am not sure that a lot of people can fit into this small ancient castle.  It was very different to an English castle.   Interestingly Malahide Castle was occupied by one family, the Talbots,  for over 900 years so the few bits seen are either very old or fairly new.    Unfortunately we did not have time to look around the gardens, but we could see things being set up for the concerts that are held there during the summer.   From Malahide it was a short drive along the coast to Howth.  For me, this trip was really an introduction to what is out there, rather than doing my usual thing of searching out public transport, and slogging around to get to places, but because Dublin is close to the sea, all these places are easily accessible for a return trip.   Lots of people are connected with this area, including Marconi and Erskine Childers, so that was exciting, but it was also just nice to potter around, look at the fisher folk, (some Arabic) bring in the haul, and have a nice panini - no traditional Irish food even encountered on this trip. 

From small ships to tall ships, as back in Dublin several ships had sailed up the river.  Unexpectedly Monty Don - who I guess was over for Bloom - was seen in the area, the woman hugging him farewell turned excitedly to me and said, " I was asking him about slugs" so now we know. 

Just as wonderful was the Dublin City Art Gallery, which features Francis Bacon's studio.

Another unexpected sight the following day was Bewley's.  For sentimental reasons I decided to potter down Grafton Street to St Stephen's Square, not expecting to see the famous cafe Bewley's as I had heard on the news that it had closed down. But there is was,  Nathan and I ate Irish stew here when last in Dublin - this time I had a fantastic carrot and coriander soup for an outrageous price and found out from other diners that I was sitting in the re-opened and recreated Bewley's.   From there it is just a skip to the green to sit read and just relax before taking the new tram system back over the river and the bus to Belfast.   Northern Ireland next stop.