Arriving in Antwerp's splendid train station and initially as per usual setting off in the wrong direction I encountered two things associated with Antwerp - diamond shops, one after another, and a charming Hasidic family enjoying the Friday evening sun. Following the kids, I found myself heading in the right direction, but when I looked at the map and saw where to I was to pass by the zoo, I thought don't be preposterous there can't be a zoo, next to the train station, except of course there was, it was where the children were heading. It has a charming, what looks like 30s entrance, and whilst you cannot get into the actual zoo without paying, you can see a few very orange looking flamingos from a distance. Antwerp I decided there and then was a delight. Given that the next thing I saw was a welcome to Chinatown arch, that only reconfirmed my view. The hostel was not far away and met all my positive expectations, very clean, well equipped and to my relief also dealt with my concern that I might be the oldest thing in it. I probably still was by a mile, but at least I was not the only person there above 25.
The walk into Antwerp is through the modern town, bustling with shoppers anxious for a last minute purchase before the shops shut at a surprisingly early 7 pm. But then you get into the old streets and the diners enjoying the evening. I wondered through and down to the river and back very happily. Even stopping outside the Irish pub to listen to some good music, only to be distracted by some young Belgians on a treasure hunt and needing a foreigner and an old person to be photographed with. I gained them two points. Back in the hostel I was greeted by three glasses of champagne, but no sign of the people who had consumed them. I reasoned that they would probably not get back to the very early hours so made the most of the dorm and rested well. They tiptoed in about 4. I tiptoed out about 9 the next morning and by the time I returned later in the day the mysterious group I had shared the room with had already left.
I am not a particular fan of Rubens, but having now visited his rather lovely house, at least I have a better sense of the man. Although his house is full of interiors reminiscent of a Vermeer painting, the overarching motif seems to be his love of Italy, this is especially apparent out in the garden, but even inside he has an Italianate collection, which befits his artistic style. He seems to have been a very correct man, yet on the side was spying for some of his patrons. When he lived in the house a canal ran by it and Antwerp was fabulously rich, but then it fell into decline and the river route was drained and became a road with a wonderful and unexpected market beyond. Wherever I went in Belgium people were out relaxing, it was very nice. Of course the weather helped - at times - but in the market, people were consuming champers or something bubbly and seafood and everything was of a very nice quality. Despite the sun, it had been nippier than Brussels - river side - so I felt obliged to buy some warmer clothing in Primart, which turned out to be useful as it was so warm when I left Antwerp that I sadly left behind my lovely turquoise scarf. In its place I got a rather ugly ring of mosquito bites, so big I wondered if I had Monkey Pox. So the downside of wandering down to the river at dusk. That aside, Antwerp turned out to be a good distraction before returning to Brussels and a stay in a nice hotel: Made in Louise.
Back in 2018 I attended a short course at Schumacher college and one of the participants told us about his family hotel where they were trying to incorporate green and community thinking. Staying there cost much more than the usual hotel but I promised myself a visit there one day. So on Sunday night after a great visit to the Horta museum and the joy of the street market in the area, I found myself in a nice comfortable bedroom just luxuriating in watching the BBC whilst in Brussels. Next morning I indulged in another shower to enjoy the nice bathroom but forgot to use the slip mat provided. I am still recovering from the bruising and still have a light graze and my glasses are not quite right still. Having flipped out of the bath, I had the really lovely breakfast despite feeling very sorry for myself, and then with the hotels permission went back to bed for a bit, then sat cossetting myself with a coffee and croissant till about two before finally feeling I could face Brussels again. Outside the torrential rain had returned and after a visit to the EU exhibition I returned to my rather sad hotel near the train station for the night it really felt like time to come home. I hope to return to Brussels and the nice luxury of the hotel when I can, it is really wonderful to step into a train and be back home almost before one has left - because of the time difference and there are lots of other places near to Brussels it would be good to visit but next time I will definitely remember to use the slip mat. P.S on train on the way home sat next to a musician, who will be performing at Cambridge Folk Festival but sadly not on the day I will be there.
No comments:
Post a Comment