Talas tales.

Smelly but vital 

I think that this was the fourth toast. 

The Kyrgyz English teacher's very cute son. 

Fancy living here all year round?

Fancy cooking a meal for the whole school and parents with this. 

Translating for my Kerben colleague: the mother of cute baby. 

The frost in Bishkek this morning

It seems unbelievable that it is almost Christmas. Here it has looked like Christmas since  mid November and it was only when I got a text inviting me to dinner on Wednesday and at first I did not twig, but then suddenly realised gosh it is here.  AT the moment though the car I was in was winding its way up the mountains. We could see the wall, but not the drop below thank goodness. En route we saw a few cars, that had skidded into huge snow drifts and people walking around in the bitter cold trying to deal with it, but my 68 year old driver, drove me and 4 others up and across the mountains from Talas to Bishkek in just 6 hours.  My phone only worked part of the way, my ears were popping and going out to the one loo that was very available for the public but as per usual had a long queue of women but no men waiting was blasting, but having got through I am very glad that we crossed the mountains in winter.

We did the journey there on Friday in the same time in the brilliant sun and the views were stunning. There was a moment, when we crossed one mountain pass and there below was just this white valley.  It looked amazing, I could imagine the valley in summer, in the past, with people on horse back living there nomadic life.  Even now in winter there are people living up in the mountains in old train carriages or containers serving food to travellers. I finally got why whenever we go to a do, we are given doggy bags, I am guessing this is something people did all those years ago, when as nomads you left your friends on horse back on a huge journey so food was much welcome. It was also much welcome when in the back of a big white car travelling through a white out.

I had assumed when we set off  that we would drop into the school that we were due to open on Saturday  but then I would be free to find something to eat and could retire to my hotel room.  However, we set off at 11.30, not 9.30 as planned which meant that we did not get there till 5.30. .  So a lot of hanging round in Bishkek, having thought we were leaving earlier, during which I managed to rush to Osh Market, but left the camera behind, and got some credit on my phone, but then returned to the flat in case the car came early,  and enjoyed just dancing round to music vids. Is the one with Ciley what ever her name with a wrecking ball the one that has caused all the fuss.    I also thought that we would probably stop on route and eat something, (I was hoping for more potatos in batter which had been so delicious on the way to Karakol ) but no we travelled for 6 hours without stopping except to look at another possible new Bilimkana school just outside of Bishkek. However, the men chatted to each other, and I was happy to gaze out at the mountains and doze in the sun. But by the time we arrived I was desperate to clean up and go to the loo, so finding myself on the edge of town in what looked like an industrial desert only to be informed that whilst the school was about to officially open the loos did not work and I was expected to meet all the rest of the teachers and have dinner with them I was not the best behaved of guests and did my I cannot cope with this right now strop around.

potential new school and my ultimate boss. 

A flavour of the mountain route to Talas.

  Luckily it turned out that the hotel was moments away so I did escape for a few minutes that way I could deal with the evening. I did impersonate Kenny Everett's I love you all, leap off the chair moment. I did sing Mary Hopkins those will be the Days, which as you will know is based on a Russian tune and Any Old Iron, but others were singing too, so I think I can be forgiven.. They were the only things that came to mind when a krygyz UK song battle was proposed and at least I tried as I got no support in this instance from my colleagues. However, in every other way I am so glad for their support as being able to skype or text them has made this experience much more comprehensible and manageble. However, we are miles from each other so only get to meet up because of  these kinds of events as I came from Chon Kemin, my other colleague came from Kerben and of course the colleague who works in Talas was there and she was able to show us around her new school. Up until now she has been coping in a tiny place, but now they are at the end of town in what was a factory , it has only been open a week, it is huge, and there are lots of staff, but her English colleague has just left, the loo is either outside if you are a man, or in more deserted factory if you are a woman, so I cannot begin to think how tough being here has been makes my battles in Shabdan seem stupid.  She is a very beautiful women, but there are lots of beautiful women here, but with the exception of when I have been with my sister, I have never known a woman have so much effect on men, the Kyrgyz men seem to go quite wild for her, much to her puzzlement (I sadly am totally invisible I have been that invisible age in the UK for years, but in Senegal it was different, here no one is interested in me and I am having to absorb this fact whilst the paparazzi sort of pursue her)   She was exhausted having spent the whole day with her colleagues preparing a Christmas sized feast.  I tucked it, (food is just put on your plate whether you want it or not) but was told off for not eating enough but my plate was then whisked away before I got thirds.  Puzzled that we were not allowed to relax and just nibble, the security guards and builders who had eaten with us, went back to patrolling, and drilling,  the speeches had come and gone, including my own, so I thought that the evening was over, and very quickly. Then the beshbarmak came out.  So that was why the other dishes had disappeared, they needed the plates for another round of food and toasts. More songs followed and it was actually a great evening.(I passed on the Beshbarmak)  For some reason the guy who rented the place to the school seemed to make most of the speeches and what was really nice is that the grandfather, or father to the owner of Bilimkana (who had flown in from the states via I think Vietnam and China for the event) seemed to be at the centre of most of the ceremony. For instance he was given a fur hat, did the first toast and goat the sheeps head. The man who set up Bilimkana seems to have endless energy, and gave speeches, translated for us and was ebullient through out. He was still partying as we wended out way to the hotel.

Greek Orthodox Church

But we were back at the packed school the following day by 10.  It was so full of parents that I saw virtually nothing of the kids part of the welcome and opening ceremony, but  the owner gave a long speech about why he set up the schools and his plans for future schools and we all had to give a little speech in English and then everyone was invited to eat.  It was amazing, full stand up buffet for all. We pushed our way in, were even fed food on a spoon, were given champers by the parents and then just as quickly they all went away the tables cleared and we thought that was it,when yes all the staff sat down and they had a meal with more speeches and more vodka. Having already eaten with the parents we did not have any more drink or food, but it was nice to relax with everyone, for some strange reason I was not asked to perform more songs, but one of the Kyrgyz women was and she was given money for doing it (so maybe like the griots in Senegal) and then one of the Indian builders was wheeled in and sang two songs too. So very eclectic. The acoustics were great. Put out me and my colleague sort of howled two songs but no one was listening or gave us money for they had offered their prayers, so it was at last time to go. I had seen virtually nothing of Talas, but the valley it is set in looks lovely and it is a proper town,b ut my colleague says has no culture, however, I had had an interesting time. Then it was back over the mountains, back to a snowy and slippery Bishkek where I found that all my perfume had spilt all over my clothes somehow on the journey, where I tried going out and buying milk to make porridge, but instead some how bought sour cream (even though I know the Russian for milk) but could not get any credit for my internet dongle and then today failed to find the church my friend attends until too late to get to the service or see any of them.  However, I did momentarily pop in to the Russian Orthodox church so made some use of my fleeting return to the capital.  It is very touching seeing great faith. People genuflecting on entering the gate, kissing the steps, genuflecting on coming into the church, and answering their mobile on exiting. I want to go again because it was a lovely space, not as grand as the Kremlim but interesting.

Russian Orthodox Church

Next week at school it will be prepare and prepare and prepare for the winter festival and then, term two will be over and it will be time to come home for a break.