Not hungry, I've eaten the horse.

On Friday in effect forced to stay on for the party for men teachers, it was actually nice to sit in a classroom, listen to a bit of radio (which I really miss when the internet goes off) and do some administrative tasks.  I was really hungry by the time it started. The heating goes off about 4 so it was cold at first but the atmosphere soon warmed up with everyone in the room.  I genuinely enjoy having the chance to say my thanks or comments to everyone and while I never understand what others say, my comments are translated. The new maths guy for instance I hear the students laughing and enjoying it, so much so wanted to know his secret and the guys who drive the bus and build the school we could not do without them so I wanted them to know that, and the guy who does the printing loves music so much I get to hear it all the time, which I love.  The men were presented with a present and to my surprise and delight I was too, so it turned out that the party was also my birthday party!.

So I started Saturday already stuffed. but Saturday was the party to end all parties here in Kyrgyzstan. Starting at 12 we had the most fantastic salads to start, I do not know why or how a broccoli and mushroom salad was so good (apart from the rarity of both here) but I could not stop eating it.    My colleague who lived in the south and had hard bread and samos most days understandably said that the the food at the Ashu is fantastic, she would have run out of superlatives over their salads yesterday ; fresh salmon, chicken, cheese, and mounds of lovely fresh bread, nuts and apricots.   I tried to go easy on the soup, then retreated to my room and crashed out for a bit before heading back for a sort of chicken strogonoff.  Another shorter break,(while the men smoke)  during which again I was thankful for the chance to escape to my room, and then the piece de resistance, horse beshbarmak.

The whole meal was topped off with wedding cake.   I am ashamed to say I burst out laughing when a huge(I am talking the length of my forearm) piece of meat was thwacked onto the plate of one of the guests.  It was such a wonderful flamboyant gesture, I couldn't help I know now that no one is expected to eat it there and then, as confirmed by the plastic bags distributed at the same time,  but I couldn't help myself.   Some bits of the horse do not look appetizing so I was very thankful that no one just chucked some meat at me, instead I was presented with a nice small plate and was happy to try some.  I am a meat eater, so really a cannibal, and do not get why we eat one meat but not another and I am guessing that rearing horses is more ecological than beef say, but European guests at the Ashu have been known to check that they are not eating it, however, they are missing a treat, very like very tender beef, while I did not eat much (too stuffed already) I can recommend it.

But what was it all about. The actual wedding will be in June and this is one of a number of precursor get togethers. This was for friends of the grooms parents,so is as much about them as the bride, who poor thing seemed to want to shrink away at times. Reminded me of myself just before I got married (2nd time) I sat frozen in the best frock I had with me on holiday, then was about to run away, when the groom arrived and I gave into my fate.  Luckily for the bride yesterday her fate is to be part of a large, very happy family.  So although it was demanding at times once she had received copious numbers of white scarfs, to send her on her way, most of the attention was lavished on the matriarch, who received several colourful scarves and patriarch, who received two stunning felt coats and a fur hat. Discrete envelopes of money were also handed over.(not knowing protocol,  I had brought some apricots as a contribution - which I left for the family to munch in the kitchen)  Each person gave thanks, and I am guessing as it was all in Kyrgyz maybe remembered something about the groom, then he or the head of the family replied a midst much laughter. One of the good things, is that although it is in many ways a male society, in these forums both men and women get to speak and it is the women who sing. (and receive money for their efforts.)  I was hoping I could join in, but I was what I thought was stuck in a corner, which was fine, expecting to just sit there, but because so many of the family sat there, with me it was a great place to be able to both watch the general hubbub and the more intimate subtleties of the family. Such as water replacing vodka at times, and the gentle and affectionate way that they support each other.   I was sat next to the manager's sister in law and her lovely family of twin boys and a 14 year old daughter who is learning English in Bishkek. She explained she has 6 lessons  a week: much more than our kids.  At the end of the meal, everyone immediately left the restaurant and went outside, they had one more drink for the road, and one of the guests suddenly started speaking with me so the young girl stepped in and did the translating, which was great for me and a very positive experience for her.   Luckily I knew a couple of people at the event, one the mother in law of a missing family son, explained some of the above, so that was kind of her,so although it was sort of tiring to sit for 6 hours, it was also a very positive experience however they are about to do it all over again as today it is a party for relatives.

Yesterday all through the celebrations there were two men not just repairing the internet they were replacing the whole system.  I was just finishing a new video when I realised I had the internet, so could not access it till the movie was finished. It only takes 30 mins, but suddenly outside I could hear the wind pick up violently. More snow.  It was brilliant, the hotel crashed into darkness,  the internet went off, the snow whirled around,  just as the movie started to play out (I hope to upload Adbou Diop video shortly.)   Today it is still softly falling, so I am hoping that I can just chill in my room and enjoy the luxury of a restored internet service.